The Difference Between French And Japanese Wine

As someone who's spent the vast majority of my career working in the bar and restaurant industry, I've dedicated no small amount of time to learning about alcoholic beverages. I've become certified in craft beer, attended lectures on the history of whiskey, and read more cocktail books than I can count. While wine is a topic that I've always found to be one of the most fascinating, it can also be one of the most overwhelming to try and get your head around.

Wine has a history dating back thousands of years and cultural links across the globe. Factors like production methods, the grapes used, and even nature itself can all change the way a wine tastes. That's not forgetting the neverending list of wine terminology we need to decipher to discuss the stuff accurately. One of the most interesting aspects of wine culture is the division between old world and new world wines. Generally, old world wines refer to those from Western European countries, like France. These are steeped in millennia of tradition while new world wines developed later through colonization. Some of these new world producers have gained global acclaim but there are still plenty of incredible international winemaking regions that are underappreciated. One such place is Japan, famed for many aspects of its cuisine but rarely associated with wine. Today, we're going to take a closer look at what makes Japanese wine so unique and how it compares to the more traditional offerings of France.

Many nations receive well-deserved recognition for their wines. Countries such as Spain, Italy, New Zealand, and Chile are all considered winemaking masters but none can really match the reputation of France. No matter where you go or who you ask, French wines are always synonymous with diversity, quality, and tradition.

France has an abundance of wine-making regions up and down the country, each with their own unique heritage and geography that leave a unique stamp on the wines they produce. Iconic locations like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and the Rhône Valley are just a few of the country's famous locales. The French also have access to an incredible variety of grapes, including classics like Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. The diversity of production methods, environments, and grape styles results in an unparalleled range of wine styles, including robust reds, crisp whites, sweet dessert wines, sparkling champagne, and plenty in between.

It's also impossible to ignore France's centuries of winemaking expertise and its incredibly strong cultural ties to wine. The French government has gone to great lengths to protect what may not be its largest export but is almost certainly its most famous. This includes implementing regulations like the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) certification system which protects domestic wines by guaranteeing standards, quality, and authenticity.

Winemaking is an emerging industry in Japan and hasn't received much global recognition. Japan's national drink is sake, which most people refer to as "rice wine." However, technically speaking, rice wine has more in common with beer or whisky than it does with the grape-based wines of France. Interestingly, some Japanese grape wine producers have taken inspiration from rice wine and used it to influence their products.

On the whole, Japan's geography isn't particularly well suited to viticulture, meaning winemakers have to be a lot more selective about where they grow their grapes. Production is limited to just a handful of regions, like Yamanashi, Nagano, and Hokkaido. These areas don't have a huge amount of geographical diversity and often experience humid climates. The soil is typically volcanic and vineyards are usually found high in the mountains. Japanese winemakers also have a more limited selection of grapes to choose from, relying on a combination of hybrids and imported varietals.

Although Japanese winemakers are still heavily influenced by traditional old-world production methods, they also employ modern techniques. This isn't wholly by choice — it's a way of adapting to their environment and appealing to Japanese consumer tastes. The result is a narrower offering of wines that are typically lighter and more aromatic than other styles, with a higher level of acidity.

One of the most significant differences between France and Japan when it comes to winemaking is the variation in climate and terroir. Climate refers to the general weather conditions of each location, while terroir is a slightly more complex term. It encompasses more factors and is seen as more of a unifying theory of wine. Although terroir does take climate into account, it also covers aspects like soil composition, human activity, appellation, rootstock, and microenvironmental elements. There's certainly a scientific dimension to the concept of terroir but it's also seen as something of an ethos.

France has a huge range of terroirs that are suitable for viticulture and winemaking. The regions sprawl across the country from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, and each has its own climate. The soil changes too, and can feature limestone, gravel, or volcanic minerals. All of these factors have an impact on the grapes grown there, which has a knock-on effect on the wine.

Japan, on the other hand, is limited in the area where grapes can be grown successfully. The regions where grapes will grow are more wet and humid than French regions, so the vines are cultivated at higher elevations. This provides greater exposure to sunlight and allows for better drainage but the soil is almost always volcanic. The result is wines that are generally more acidic with a greater level of minerality.

At its core, winemaking is a relatively straightforward process. In some ways, this makes it even more fascinating that there's so much variation between wines in terms of style and quality. Grapes are grown and harvested, then pressed into juice. The juice is fermented and clarified, then bottled for aging and drinking. Although methods vary depending on whether you're making a red, white, rosé, or sparkling wine, the processes themselves haven't changed all that much over the centuries. Old world winemaking countries like France are particularly fond of maintaining tradition in their production methods and utilize historic techniques such as oak barrel aging and malolactic fermentation.

As I mentioned above, Japanese winemakers face some unique challenges in relation to the available terroirs. There's still plenty of traditional influence in their methodology but there's also been a need to adapt to the environment. For example, the humidity in Japan's wine regions means vines are at greater risk of fungal diseases, while inclement weather risks damaging the plants. To combat this, vines are cultivated on elevated, horizontal trellises to improve airflow and protect them from high winds. Some winemakers also plant grasses below the vines to minimize soil erosion and line their land with hedges to create a barrier against snow. Japanese consumer tastes are also slightly different, so producers tend to avoid making styles that have little demand.

Although wine didn't originate in France, the country still has over two and a half thousand years of winemaking experience. The Greeks first brought wine to southern Gaul — now the south of France — around 600 BCE. Subsequently, the Romans licensed these regions to produce wine for their colossal empire. A thousand years later, Christian monks continued to plant vineyards as they traveled through the area, much like they did with beer and whisky in other parts of the continent. By the Middle Ages, winemaking was dominated by the French monasteries. In later years, the nobility got in on the action as well, at least before the French Revolution relieved them of their vineyards...and their heads. Despite setbacks from crop diseases, wars, and financial depressions, the industry has continued to hold a revered place in French culture.

Japan didn't start producing grape-based wine until much, much later. They didn't start growing grapes until around 800 CE and it's likely wine didn't reach the country until it was brought over by Portuguese missionaries in the 16th century. The Japanese didn't start making wine themselves until the tail end of the 19th century, and even these efforts were greatly hindered by crop disease. It wasn't until after the Second World War that winemaking saw a steady increase in Japan, and it took until the turn of the 21st century before wine became more widely accepted — and available — to the general public.

Another key distinction between French and Japanese wines is the type of grapes that are used. Grapes come in a huge number of varieties and while they're not all suitable for winemaking, there are still plenty to choose from. However, it all comes down to availability. Even if you don't drink wine, you've likely heard of the most popular European varietals, such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir. These are staples of French wines, and while some regions rely more heavily on certain varietals than others, there's typically a lot of crossover. Every grape has its own unique character which not only affects the flavor of the wine but also impacts aspects like body, alcoholic strength, acidity, sweetness, structure, and the level of tannins.

However, compared to France, Japan is a lot more limited in terms of grape choice. Technically speaking, Japan doesn't even have any indigenous vines. As I mentioned earlier, the biggest limitation comes down to geography, so Japanese wine grapes have to be hardy enough to survive in harsh conditions. Over time, the country has developed its own hybrid grape varieties, like Koshu and Muscat Bailey A. While they may not be true native vines, they're still considered to be Japanese varietals. Some winemakers will also import cultivars from Europe but this isn't always cost effective.

When you consider the points we've covered so far, it's unsurprising that France can produce an incredibly diverse range of wines. Not only do they have a huge amount of land suitable for grape cultivation but the land itself creates differences in the wine and they have greater access to different types of grapes. We have the full-bodied reds and sweet whites of Bordeaux and the elegant, terroir-driven wines of Burgundy. The Loire Valley is home to vibrant, food-friendly wines. Alsace produces some of the world's most aromatic white wines and Champagne, of course, needs no introduction. France has also had thousands of years to develop different styles of wine, experiment with techniques and terroirs, and craft expressions to meet consistent international demand.

By comparison, Japan's wine range is miniscule, but it would be unfair to expect otherwise. The country is limited by its terroir, so it's a bit like expecting a home chef with a handful of ingredients to match the menu of a large restaurant. Plus, Japanese winemaking is a relatively niche industry that's only existed since the late 1800s. As an emerging market, there simply hasn't been enough time to develop new styles. Production costs are higher for Japanese winemakers and there's little international demand for their product, so it makes sense for them to target their product for a domestic market with specific tastes.

While there are many wines that are perfectly enjoyable to drink on their own, nothing beats a solid wine and food pairing. French wines are typically designed to complement the richness and diversity of the country's cuisine. The range of French wines definitely helps, so you can easily pick out a bold, tannic cabernet sauvignon to pair with a hearty dry-aged steak or opt for a citrusy sauvignon blanc to match fresh seafood. The amount of French wine styles available and their varying complexity also means they're suitable for pairing with foods from other cuisines from around the world.

Although Japanese wines can still be excellent for food pairings, the style limitations reduce the number of suitable options. In general, Japanese wines are light and aromatic, with high levels of acidity. Dry styles aren't as common, while the volcanic soil composition imparts a notable minerality. Despite the lack of versatility, Japanese wines are fantastic for pairing with Japanese cuisine because they tend to share similar qualities. The delicate style makes them a superb match for dishes like sushi and pickled vegetables, but they can also hold their own against umami-rich soy and miso-based dishes as well.

Japanese and French wines both offer a range of strengths in terms of alcohol but French wines tend to be on the boozier side. Although this may partly be a matter of preference, wine strength is dictated by two factors – yeast and sugar. In fact, this is the same for any alcoholic beverage — it doesn't matter whether you're making wine, whisky, brandy, or beer. You add the yeast to your base mixture, the yeast eats the sugars, and alcohol is produced as the byproduct. The more sugar the yeast consumes, the stronger your drink will be. In winemaking, the sugar content of the initial grape pressing is dictated by the sweetness of the grapes, and the sweetest grapes grow in the regions with the highest levels of sunshine.

The strength of French wines is usually somewhere between the 12 to 15 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) range with stronger wines typically coming from regions with the most sunshine. Conversely, Japanese wines are weaker, coming in at between 10 to 12 percent ABV. This is because Japanese grapes are grown in a cooler, wetter climate and struggle to get as much sunshine as their French counterparts. Although winemakers can still adjust and influence the strength of their wines, it's likely that the lower strength of Japanese wine reflects the country's food pairing preferences. French wine needs strength to stand up to bolder and heartier dishes, whereas Japanese wine has to avoid overpowering the nation's more delicate food offerings.

Last year, France produced around an eye-watering 48 million hectoliters of wine, working out to about 6 billion bottles. It overtook Italy as the world's biggest wine producer and remains the second-largest consumer of wine globally after the United States. This is thanks to France's extremely lengthy wine history and culture, unbeatable reputation, and massive global demand. The wine industry is also heavily supported by the government. Although wine doesn't actually contribute a significant amount to France's GDP, it also helps drive tourism, and the country is fiercely passionate about protecting and promoting its cultural heritage. The French government has even spent hundreds of millions of dollars to prop up the wine industry when it experienced an economic downturn. Although factors like climate change continue to threaten wine production, France has the support and infrastructure to create and supply wine on an astronomical scale.

Although Japanese consumers' interest in wine continues to grow, last year they ranked just 23rd globally for wine production. International competition is huge and offers a range that domestic producers just can't meet. Given the small scale of Japan's wine industry, it doesn't make financial sense for winemakers to try and compete in the global market. When was the last time you saw a bottle of Japanese wine in the grocery store? Over time, this may change, but for now, Japanese wine is likely to remain a small-scale, niche domestic product.