9 Cuts Of Tuna, Explained
There is nothing so decadently pleasurable as sampling a perfectly prepared cut of tuna. To devour a piece of kama toro is to experience a luxuriant, melt-in-the-mouth experience, while a slither of senaka akami cut delivers a meaty, umami-filled moment of joy.
Tuna is one of the world's best-known and most widely consumed fish in the U.S., where we eat over one billion pounds of canned and pouched tuna each year, but the magnificent tuna fish is so much more than the tins on supermarket shelves. The finest cuts of tuna are fat-marbled, meaty delicacies that sell for thousands of dollars and are highly prized by the world's most celebrated chefs.
Preparing a tuna is a rare skill that takes years to perfect. In top restaurants, the finest tuna are aged between several days to a few weeks under stringently controlled conditions to allow the flavors to develop. Once ready, the fish is filleted, a skill that takes top sushi itamae between four and ten years to finesse. In Japanese, where huge value is placed on appreciating the delicate flavors that make up each part of the fish, the art of fish cutting is nearly 900 years old.
With large bluefin tuna selling for upwards of a million dollars, the onus is on top chefs to develop an in-depth understanding of their anatomy, including how to age it, fillet it, and the best way to prepare and serve each cut. So, to help us explore the intricacies of the tuna, we've gathered eight highly celebrated chefs from across the globe.
Tuna species and the best tuna cuts
Tuna is not one single fish; they are part of a large group of fish, which include mackerel. The tribe which contains tuna is called Thunnini, and there are fifteen true tuna in the genus, of which only seven are frequently consumed. These are skipjack (known as light tuna), albacore (known as white tuna), yellowfin (ahi), bigeye, and three species of bluefin; Atlantic, Pacific, and Southern. Each tuna species has a different texture, color, and taste, and every chef has a preference for which they use.
In the U.S., skipjack tuna accounts for 56% of today's caught tuna, followed by yellowfin at 31%. These two tuna species are used in canned tuna, which is consumed by 88% of Americans. This is followed by bigeye (7%), albacore (4%), and bluefin (1%), which are primarily used for fresh meat. Bluefin is regarded as the King of Tuna, with a single tuna fish selling for millions of dollars.
Regardless of the species, tuna is separated into grades based on fat content and how much marbling is in the meat. The three most common cuts of tuna are akami, chutoro, and otoro, but the whole of the tuna is used in cooking. In a restaurant, the cuts of tuna you are most likely to encounter are:
- Toro: (fatty tuna) meat from the belly that envelopes the organs, it is very fatty and unctuous. There are three toro cuts – Otoro Harakami, Chutoro, and Harashimo
- Akami: (colored meat) the lean tuna back, this has less fat content and more protein. There are three different akami cuts – Senaka, Sekami and Seshimo
- Noten: top of the head
- Hoho Niko: cheek
- Kama Toro: back cheek
Senaka akami – highest quality akami
In Japanese, all lean red meat is called akami; in tuna fish, this refers to the lean meat along the fish's spine. Akami has less fat content than other parts of the fish; all akami should be a deep red color with little marbling. The akami cuts are rich in minerals, L-α amino acids and hemoglobin, and iron ions, which give it a strong savory umami taste — sometimes described as slightly metallic with faint acidity. There are three different cuts of akami: sekami, senaka, and seshimo, which vary in quality, color, and taste.
In Japan, you may not see akami listed on menus; the akami meat may be listed as "maguro sushi" or "maguro sashimi."
Senaka is the highest quality akami tuna found in the center of the tuna's back, where the vertebrae are located. This tuna cut is dark red with little sinew or fat marbling. Senaka akami is more tender than other akami and the darkest in color; it has a velvety texture with an intense savory taste.
How to serve: Its intense flavor and soft texture make Senaka Akami very popular for sushi nigiri or sashimi. Moira Hill, Executive Chef at Ironside Fish & Oyster, says she would "keep it simple by serving senaka akami as the catch of the day, seared to a medium rare, or slice it raw for crudo or chopped for tuna tartare."
Sekami akami – medium quality akami
Sekami is an akami cut taken from the tuna's upper back, behind the head, and above the pectoral fin. Akami cuts are graded for meatiness, redness, and leanness; as sekami is paler and fattier than the senaka cut, it is considered lower in quality. Tuna connoisseurs differ in their preference for tuna, and many regard red, high protein akami meat as of better quality than toro cuts.
Sekami has high umami and a soft acidity; it is best served after being matured for at least a week. After a tuna dies, enzymatic reactions and the breakdown of various molecules mean that the taste of tuna changes. Earl Aguilar, culinary director at Sushi Note Omakase, says, "Dry aging is a big part of my menu. Dry aging tuna, as well as other fish, really brings out the natural oils of the fish and amplifies the texture in an amazing way. The difference is mind-blowing." In Japan the fish is aged between 7–10 days by the fishermen and then often further aged in the restaurant.
How to serve: Due to its leanness senaka akami is often served as sashimi, as it may split if sliced thinly for nigiri. Chef Richard Sandoval of Richard Sandoval Hospitality recommends Ceviche Amarillo, "Yellowfin tuna, ají amarillo, leche de tigre, red onion, and mango. This dish celebrates the vibrant flavors of Latin America, specifically Peru, with the ají amarillo and leche de tigre offering a bright acidity and heat that complements the tuna's clean, delicate taste."
Seshimo akami – lowest quality akami
Seshimo akami is located in the tail of the tuna's lower back. Seshimo akami is deep red with white streaks running through the cut. It's considered the poorest quality akami as it is the leanest and lightest in color, with little fat content and many fibers. However, while seshimo is primarily akami meat, there is a small slice of fatty chutoro, and a slither of wakaremi within the cut, which gives it a depth of flavor that is often overlooked.
Wakaremi is a tiny sliver of meat located close to the dorsal fin; it is not available in most sushi restaurants but is prized for its fatty umami taste. The chutoro in the seshimo cut has a fattiness and roughness which adds texture.
How to serve: Seshimo can be served as spicy tuna cut and marinated in siracha, sesame oil, and kewpie mayonnaise. It is often served as maki, a traditional sushi roll made by wrapping fish, vegetables, and sushi in a sheet of nori (dried seaweed). There are four types of maki:
- Hosomaki: A thin roll of sushi that is about one inch around, made with nori rice and a single ingredient, which can be meat or a vegetable
- Chumaki: Slightly larger than hosomaki made with two or three different ingredients
- Futomaki: The largest of the maki rolls at 2 1/2 inches, the Futo maki roll holds four or more ingredients
- Uramaki: The "inside out" sushi roll–with rice as the outer layer and nori on the inside
- Temaki: Known as a "hand roll," with the appearance of a savory ice cream cone, sushi rice, and up to four ingredients wrapped with nori
Harashimo toro – least superior toro
Toro is the Japanese term for the fattiest part of the tuna. Toro cuts are taken from the tuna belly; if looking at a cross-section of the fish, they are the outer part of the fish nearest the skin. There are three main cuts of Toro: Harakami Toro, which is extra fatty; Chutoro, or medium fatty; and Harashimo Toro, the least fatty and desirable cut.
The desirability of the Toro cuts is a recent development. Before the Second World War, the toro was regarded as low quality and thrown away. Historically, the fattiest parts of the fish would spoil when transported on fishing boats, making most of the fish inedible except for the meatier akami section. Today, with the advent of refrigeration, the toro cuts are some of the most coveted pieces of tuna, often used as sushi or nigiri.
Harashimo is the lowest quality cut, taken from the lower belly at the back of the fish; it's a semi-fatty piece but tendon-heavy. The texture of harashimo is improved by shredding and dicing, where it is used as a filling in sushi rolls or as a tartar with avocado and yuzu.
How to serve: Chef Thomas Bernard of Le Depot Brasserie in Park City, Utah, says he loves to use Ventresca, the Spanish word for the belly of the tuna. He says, "The high-fat content gives it a melt-in-your-mouth texture, making it a favorite in Mediterranean cuisine for its versatility and depth of flavor." Chef Thomas serves Ventresca à la Biscayenne, "a classic preparation where the tuna is cooked lightly to preserve its delicate texture. It is served with a deeply flavorful Basque-inspired sauce made of sweet peppers, tomatoes, and ham."
Harakami otoro – extra fatty toro
Harakami Otoro is a triangular-shaped piece of meat that is located under the collar and gill cover in front of the tuna belly. The cut is a very small proportion of the fish, yielding less than 1%. As with other tuna cuts, the meager quantities increase its desirability.
Harakami otoro is the fattiest piece of the tuna, with a 25–30% fat content; it is an oily meat that is highly marbled and deep red with visual similarities to beef. Harakami otoro should melt in your mouth with the texture and feel of butter. Some people regard this cut as too oily, but many are happy to pay a high price to taste this luxurious cut due to its creamy qualities and intense soft mouthfeel.
Guillermo Gassan, chef and co-owner of Japanese restaurant IKO Miami, states, "My favorite cut of tuna is the torso from Japanese bluefin tuna. Otoro is very rich and melts-in-your-mouth. It's a true delicacy that reflects the artistry of Japanese cuisine. Its luxurious flavor makes it my preferred choice when eating sashimi or nigiri."
How to serve: Owing to its delicate mouthfeel and concentrated fattiness, Harakami otoro is often served as sushi. Executive Chef Omar Barquera at Thompson Zihuatanejo states, "This (otoro) cut is my favorite because it is very greasy and super soft. I typically use tuna for sashimi, served only with soy sauce on the side, raw, or a little bit sealed with charcoal or wood (it doesn't need to be cooked)." For consumers who struggle with the fat content, searing the meat slightly will drain the fat and make it more palatable.
Chutoro – fatty toro
Chutoro is taken from the lower belly area of a tuna, between the lean akami cuts and the intensely fatty harakami otoro. The Japanese word for medium is chu — hence, chutoro is a medium fatty belly piece. It offers tuna connoisseurs an excellent middle ground between the fattiness of the harakami otoro and the flavor-dense, lean pieces of akami meat. The chutoro has a fat content of 15–20%; the fat should be visible as white lines marbled throughout light pink meat.
Chutoro is tender, delicate and buttery with a good amount of umami. The toro cuts are powerfully savory, with the chutoro cut giving a well-rounded savory note versus the otoro's intense burst of flavor.
How to serve: Due to its mix of lean meat and fatty parts, chutoro is a favorite for sashimi or nigiri sushi, where its complex flavor profile can be appreciated. Our expert, Chef Todd Dae Kulper, Co-Executive Chef at Umi, advises to "serve the chutoro as a Tataki with yuzu wakame truffle su-miso sauce!"
Chef Richard Sandoval of Richard Sandoval Hospitality says he likes to work with tuna loin (toro cuts), "I always gravitate toward the loin of the yellowfin. It's incredibly tender, lean, and perfect for raw preparations like ceviche or sashimi. This cut has a silky texture that pairs well with citrus and spice."
Noten – top of the head
Noten, sometimes called toniku or head meat, is taken from the crown of the head. Noten is extremely rare; even in the largest tuna there are only tiny amounts available. A chef may be able to slice two pieces in a large tuna, but in smaller fish, only a single piece can be carved.
Noten appears bright red with sinews on the outside, giving it a slightly white color. This cut is highly sought after for its soft, creamy texture. Noten tastes similar to chutoro in that it has a medium fatty taste with a slightly sweet flavor but contains more tendons, like a slightly leaner chutoro.
Noten is often used in casseroles or grilled, which gives it a meaty gelatinous taste. Chef Khoi Vu, an omakase chef at the Michelin-starred O by Brush at Buckhead Village, discusses the cut, "Noten is extremely rare. For instance, in a 200lb tuna, there are only maybe two 7 to 8-ounce loins in the entire tuna. The meat is firm with a very clean fattiness on par with others but not as overbearingly rich."
How to serve: Noten can be found in the best sushi and served raw on omakase menus. Chef Khoi Vu suggests that while noten "is delicious on its own as sashimi or nigiri, to add another layer... seared, especially with charcoal, it creates a smoky aroma to pair with the overall bite."
Hoho-niku – cheek
Hoho-Niku is the Japanese name for the cheeks of the tuna fish, essentially the inner part of the face, just below the fish's eyes. Sometimes called the fillet mignon of the tuna world, as with many land animals, the cheeks are the most tender and tasty cut. The hoho-niku are highly coveted, with a few hundred grams being taken from a large tuna. It is considered one of the best cuts of tuna and is hard to find on most restaurant menus.
The hoho-niku is crescent-shaped, juicy, gelatinous, very low in fat, and slightly stringy, which gives it an unctuous chewy texture; the cut has a good balance between meat and fat. Hoho-niku should be eaten fresh; once frozen, its taste changes, and it should be used in dishes where its distinctive smell is masked by spices or garlic.
How to serve: The hoho-niku cut can be served as sashimi in gunkan form. Gunkan sashimi is a sort of rice boat, a base of sushi rice wrapped in nori and topped with hoho-niku. The cheeks can be grilled or combined into a casserole.
Executive Chef Omar Barquera at Thompson Zihuatanejo recommends hoho-niku, "The tuna cheeks, or hoho-niku in Japanese, have amazing flavor. I love to cook it on the grill, robatayaki style, and only season with sea salt — it's delicious!"
Kama-taro – back cheek
Baking the entire fish head, a dish called Kabutoyaki in Japanese, which includes the kama taro, hoho-niku, and other head cuts, is extremely popular. In Japan, the eyeball, or Maguro no Medama, is considered a delicacy boiled and served with soy sauce. Nothing goes to waste; after the most desirable parts of the tuna head are taken, the bones will be boiled and used for stock.
Traditionally, the head was saved for the family by fishermen. As with other less well-known cuts, the kama-taro was once disregarded and thrown away when the fish was butchered. Only recently have chefs begun to recognize the delicacies contained in the fish head.
Kama-Taro cuts are valued for their scarcity, only a small quantity obtained from each fish, but also for their flavor and succulent texture. Fondly referred to as the rib-eye of the sea, the meat is highly marbled with no veins so the meat is soft, fatty, and sweet.
How to serve: Kama-Taro is ideal pan-fried to sear the outside but keep it rare on the inside then drizzled with a small amount of soy sauce to up the umami.