Why The Most Famous Food Critic In NYC Wasn't Impressed By Peter Luger Steak House
Peter Luger, the famous Brooklyn steakhouse operating since 1887, is somewhat of a landmark in New York City. It has a reputation for being old and not fitting into any modern cultural mold. It's also one of the fancy steakhouses that earned scathing critic reviews. In 2019, The New York Times published a review of Peter Luger, written by an influential NYC food critic, Pete Wells. The review awarded the steakhouse with zero stars, highlighting poor service, subpar food, and lack of consistency.
It's been said before that in order to truly hate something, you must deeply love it first. This certainly seems to be the case for Wells, who has been frequenting the iconic steakhouse since the 1990s — his disillusionment with the place sounds almost like a friend telling you about their long-coming breakup. "I don't remember when the doubts began, but they grew over time," he wrote.
The centerpiece of a bad restaurant review is, naturally, always the food itself; any other slight could perhaps be overlooked. Wells described the food at Peter Luger as wildly unappetizing — the flavorless beef, the gray fries, the soppy salad. Worst of all, the meat was inconsistent, varying in doneness between customers who all had the same order. The food is also sold at eye-watering prices, adding more insult to injury and making Wells question whether the steakhouse is still worth visiting at all.
Three years after the fierce review, Peter Luger lost its Michelin star
In October 2022, Peter Luger officially lost its Michelin star. The reason why Michelin stars get taken away is solely related to food quality and consistency, and nothing else. That means presentation and service don't play a role — Michelin stars are exclusively about the food. In Peter Luger's case, this is an important piece of information. Pete Wells emphasized in his New York Times piece how inconvenient the dining experience was and how distant, unwelcoming, and bordering on rude the servers were. In the aftermath of the article, some customers came to the steakhouse's defense, stating they had a great experience with the staff or noting the positive core memories they made at the restaurant throughout their lives. So there's certainly a point to be made for visiting Peter Luger not for the food, but for the experience.
But this aspect alone makes it clear that the majority of Peter Luger goers seem to agree the food is simply mediocre at best. A steakhouse that's not known for a good steak is definitely in trouble, and who knows how long the restaurant will be able to hold onto its old-fashioned, historical appeal? That said, there is still something on the menu that customers consider a flavorful success: The burger. So, while Peter Luger may no longer be the best place for a steak, it remains one of the best spots for a steakhouse burger in NYC.