The Ultimate Guide To Truffles
Certain ingredients have an enticing allure, whether due to rarity, luxury, or indisputable deliciousness. When it comes to truffles (the fungus, not the chocolate) it's a blend of all three. For starters, they only grow in specific conditions during certain times of the year, and harvesting them is best done alongside an animal with a more potent olfaction. Since they're not super common and require time to source, the price is high. Additionally, this leads to a perceived luxury factor because, well, they're pretty luxurious.
Anyone who's smelled or tasted truffles can vouch for their one-of-a-kind gustatory qualities, adding to their mystique. But what sets them apart from foraged mushrooms or fancy spices? Why are truffles so revered in the food world? We enlisted the expertise of truffle hunter Carlo Marenda, the founder of Save the Truffle. As the youngest truffle hunter in Italy's Alba, Piedmont region, Marenda has been in the industry for 20 years, training with highly respected and experienced hunters.
I had the pleasure to meet him and his dogs for a truffle masterclass, following a stroll in the hills of Ceretto Winery, where Marenda likes to hunt. His passion for truffles was immediately evident, and his knowledge endless. If you're looking for a deep dive into the aromatic world of truffles, read on.
What are truffles?
It's easy to amass truffles into the mushroom category, but these unique fungi certainly look distinct from what you'll find at the supermarket. Although they are distantly related, truffles are considered to be in a class of their own. Carlo Marenda describes them as "elements of biodiversity closely linked to nature, which hide in spontaneous conditions." The tuber grows underground, interacting via elaborate networks. This dictates where they grow, as they have a symbiotic relationship with trees, depending on them for photosynthesis, while trees benefit from their capacity to absorb water and nutrients.
Much like other tubers, truffles have an uneven surface and a roundish shape, ranging from the size of a walnut to a fist. Depending on the variety, it is a dark brownish-black color, or more of a pale cream to brownish hue. The former typically has a rougher exterior, whereas the latter is smoother. The spores are located inside the truffle and are necessary for reproduction. This occurs when animals dig them up and consume them, spreading spores in the process.
Most importantly for their growth, Marenda explains, "We need the seasons to be real seasons, [with] temperatures and rainfall [that] are as regular as possible." The balance between the two is key, as he elaborates. "The truffle is made up of 80% water ... if there is little rain and heat, there will be few truffles ... if there is too much rain, the risk is that they do not reach maturity."
How do the different varieties compare?
Although truffles are considered a luxury ingredient, some varieties garner less prestige than others. Considering there are over 100 varieties, there are bound to be some that stand out. These vary regionally too, but at the most basic, they can be classified as black or white truffles. This distinguishes them based on their external appearance (by color) as well as their growing windows and taste. Black truffles tend to be more robust and are better for cooking, while white truffles have a delicate, yet intense nature best savored raw.
Of the former, common European varieties include the scorzone (or summer) black truffle, black truffle of Norcia/Périgord, smooth black truffle, and winter black truffle. Summer black truffles are typically the most common variety found in Europe, ripening from spring to winter and progressively intensifying in aroma. Meanwhile, black truffles of Norcia/Périgord are possibly the most popular worldwide and grow abundantly in France throughout the winter, as well as in Spain and Italy. Smooth black and winter black truffles aren't as popular commercially.
White truffles, on the other hand, require more finicky growing conditions, making them far rarer (and more expensive) than their darker counterparts. Of these, white truffles of Alba are a premium variety, ripening from fall to early winter and displaying an intensely aromatic character. Bianchetto white truffles have an even bolder profile, which can become overpowering, consequently making them less desirable.
How are truffles harvested?
Carlo Marenda describes truffle hunting as a lonely passion — if it weren't, they might not be quite as expensive and desirable. Considering they grow underground, it requires additional talents to source the elusive fungi. Although pigs are used in some places, they tend to be too eager about consuming the truffles to be helpful, often damaging the terrain in the process. In fact, since the mid-'80s, they are no longer permitted for this purpose in Italy.
While experienced truffle hunters can establish patterns and learn where truffles are likely to grow (close to trees, primarily), for the most part, the task is in the hands (or nose) of trained dogs. Dogs have a far superior sense of smell to humans, which allows them to sniff out truffles beneath the surface. Nevertheless, they require lengthy training to reach their prime hunting capacities. To minimize distractions and benefit from moist soil conditions that help diffuse aromas, hunting is done in the early morning or at night. Once dogs signal they've tracked down a truffle, the hunter carefully begins to dig at the ground to unearth it. This process must be done with a gentle hand, to avoid contact with the truffle itself.
Given their high price tag and luxury factor, regulations are in place to ensure hunters do not harvest truffles during important growing periods. Controlled areas also require hunters to obtain the necessary license, which in Alba involves an exam and a yearly fee.
What are synthetic truffles?
Chances are if you've ventured into a gourmet food shop or a trendy eatery, you've seen various products flavored with truffles. Truffle chips, fries, salts, oils, cheeses ... the list goes on. While it would be great if these foods showcased the true nature of truffles, more often than not, they are made with synthetic truffles. The most common compound used to mimic the alluring aromas is 2,4-dithiapentane, which is found in truffles. Sure this keeps the cost down, but it has an overpowering scent that causes people to disdain truffles, nothing like the balanced intensity that makes the fungi so desirable.
There are exceptions and different standards when it comes to truffle-flavored products. For example, some producers use fresh truffles to infuse olive oil, shave and combine them with cheese, or dry them to sprinkle in salt or rice. While the natural truffle character might be intact, the organoleptic characteristics will significantly deteriorate in the process. You'll get something of a hint of truffle flavors, but nothing like the real deal. Truffles must be consumed as soon as possible, as the volatile compounds immediately begin to decrease once they are unearthed from the soil.
Why are truffles so expensive?
Even if you don't know much about truffles, you probably know they're pretty pricey. Although they're not all equally costly, you're certainly paying more than you would for a button mushroom — but there's a reason for the hefty price tag. For starters, their relative rarity and trickiness to source make it hard to meet the demands of the luxury market. They require peak growing conditions throughout the season, and harvest can suffer if these are not met. Although some varieties are also cultivated, naturally sourcing truffles is done by hand and requires time. The truffle hunter needs to spend a few years training their dog, which is both a time and monetary investment.
The cost varies greatly depending on whether you are purchasing truffles in a truffle-growing region, from a hunter, or at a Michelin-star restaurant. Even in Alba, Carlo Marenda describes a three-tiered price system for white truffles, wherein farmers, the regional truffle fair, and restaurants all charge an increasing cost. For white truffles, which grow about 10 times less than black summer truffles, he says the cost for 3.5 ounces ranges from about $300 to $600. On the flip side, 1 pound of black summer truffles in Alba runs about $150. Cross the ocean and those numbers rapidly multiply. With sky-high prices and their rapidly dwindling taste and aromas, Marenda recommends avoiding disappointment by saving up to visit Alba (or another truffle-growing region) and experiencing truffles at their peak freshness.
What do truffles taste like?
With all the luxury associated with truffles, you might wonder what the fuss is all about. Even though each variety of truffle is distinct, and tubers will have unique flavor profiles depending on where they grow, the taste is one of a kind. While truffle oils can mimic it to some extent with synthetic compounds, it's more like receiving an overwhelming dose of flavor compared with the subtle yet potent appeal of a fresh truffle. They definitely exhibit a sign of where they grow in the taste, but one of the common flavors across varieties is earthiness.
Black summer truffles display mild aromas of mushrooms, wet leaves, hazelnuts, cacao, and beets, whereas black winter varieties tend to be more robust and developed in complexity. Expect similar notes, yet with more depth and fragrance. White winter truffles, on the other hand, boast a pungent aroma and perfectly balanced delicate yet bold flavors. There's nothing quite like the experience of a white winter truffle ... which may justify the price discrepancy. Hints of earth, shallot, garlic, butter, cheese, and an undeniable umami character take over the palate. Bianchetto white truffles are similar, but the flavors are slightly more in-your-face, rather than elegantly delivered.
How should you serve truffles?
If you're going to go through the trouble of sourcing truffles and paying top dollar, you had best be serving them in optimal conditions. If you think that means serving them with other decadent ingredients, you'd be wrong. To highlight their one-of-a-kind flavor and give them the spotlight they deserve, Carlo Marenda recommends serving truffles with basic ingredients.
"The white truffle has a very very intense and strong aroma ... therefore the dishes are odorless and tasteless ... very simple dishes, such as eggs (boiled) or our homemade pasta (Tajarin, or eggs and flour) with a little butter at the end of cooking," he explains. Indeed, in Piedmont it is very common to see these simple recipes on restaurant menus, displaying the essence of the truffle front and center. White truffles should not be cooked or their delicate aromas will be compromised; instead, serve them raw and thinly shaved as a garnish.
Black truffles, on the other hand, can handle some heat, but it's best to keep it minimal to retain their subtleties. Shave them over creamy risotto, pasta dishes, or to jazz up an omelet. You can also pair them with butter to season something as basic as crostini or a ricotta spread. Black truffles also pair well with meat, either shaved on top or combined with gravy or butter to season. When in doubt, keep the rest of the dish plain to ensure the truffles stand out.
Where can you buy truffles?
Unless you're shopping at some pretty elite grocery stores, chances are you won't find truffles in the produce aisle. This is undoubtedly a gourmet food product, and consequently, you'll want to visit specialty food shops to track them down. More importantly, it will have to be peak truffle season to ensure you get some semblance of freshness. Fine food shops are likely to inform customers of imminent truffle deliveries, to ensure they are promptly sold.
Depending on where in the country you live, buying truffles may be an easy or near-impossible feat. Large cities are likely to have more options, whereas you'll be hard-pressed to find a truffle in a rural town (unless they grow there). If you're eager to taste truffles and can't source them locally, several online retailers import truffles from Piedmont and other growing regions. They often boast overnight shipping or bi-weekly imports to guarantee ideal gustatory conditions.
Considering the price you'll be paying to take home a truffle, it's especially important to shop somewhere reputable and trustworthy. Improperly sourced or stored truffles aren't going to be worth the money. You'll want to know when the truffles were picked and how long they've been hanging around the shop. Even if stored in the best conditions, the quality of aromas will significantly deteriorate in a week or two. Depending on the cuisine, fine dining restaurants may include truffles on the menu at the height of the season.
How to store truffles?
If you're splurging on truffles (let's be real — on a truffle), then you'll want to ensure they retain maximum freshness until you finish consuming them. Ideally, this means eating what you bought as quickly as possible, to savor the flavor at its peak. Within a few days is best, but up to a week or so will still leave you with some of the flavor characteristics intact.
Depending on how you purchase the truffles, they may come in a particular container. Otherwise, Carlo Marenda recommends wrapping them with paper and keeping them in the vegetable drawer in your fridge. A paper-towel-lined airtight container is an optimal method to ensure they maintain a balanced humidity. Dry off any condensation in the container to prevent it from negatively impacting the truffles.
If they have some dirt on them (for example, if you are sourcing them from a very recent harvest), Marenda instructs to brush off the most prominent bits of soil but to leave some as it helps preserve the moisture. Avoid using water to clean them unless absolutely necessary. If you're serious about consuming truffles, you may want to purchase a truffle brush to delicately remove any soil without potentially damaging them (or a clean toothbrush works in a pinch).
You can freeze truffles, but it's not recommended. They will be compromised both aromatically and texturally, reducing the possible uses. To truly savor truffles, buy what you need and eat it quickly.
What regions are known for truffles?
Italian truffle hunting and extraction are included in UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, highlighting the country's significant role in the field. It's home to the luxurious white truffle of Alba, and hunting is an important industry and cultural practice in rural areas. Experience it at its peak at the International White Truffle Fair, which has taken place in Alba for almost 100 years.
Carlo Marenda is keen to share the region's treasures with visitors, singling out the areas of Langhe, Monferrato, and Roero, and describing tours like "Truffle Lesson & Hunting," that offer insight into the field. "The profits from these activities are reinvested in the management and maintenance of the forests," he explains, emphasizing the importance of maintaining harmony with the environment. While Piedmont is perhaps the most famous truffle area in Italy, truffles also grow in the regions of Umbria, Marche, and Tuscany.
Several other regions in Europe are known for their truffles, namely Spain and France, the latter of which is home to the famous black Périgord truffles. Croatia has some worthy growing spots, as does Wiltshire, England. In the U.S., Oregon is a top growing spot and hosts an annual Truffle Festival in February. Other areas of the Pacific Northwest have suitable growing conditions, and increased truffle cultivation practices mean they're starting to pop up everywhere. China, Australia, New Zealand, Turkey, Chile, and Argentina are among other countries growing the luxurious tubers.
How will environmental changes affect truffle production?
As with many agricultural domains, truffle production may face difficulties with rising temperatures and erratic growing conditions. Carlo Marenda describes truffles as a sensor that captures weather changes, offering insight into the biodiversity present in a region. This means they are all too affected by unstable conditions. His mission with Save the Truffle is to help protect some of the local ecosystems where truffles currently grow, with the hopes that they will continue to flourish over time.
Marenda comments, "The risk of having less white truffle production due to the climate exists and will be the biggest challenge of the coming years." He describes the unpredictable conditions, noting that in the past few years summer temperatures remained well into the fall, combined with no rainfall. "This year, 2024, however, about 5 inches of rain fell in mid-October, limiting development and production," he says. Neither of these extremes are favorable to growth, as balanced humidity is key. Additionally, aromatic compounds might peak too fast, deteriorating by harvest time, or on the flip side, fail to develop in time for harvest.
On the other end of the spectrum, increased temperatures might open up new truffle-growing markets in areas that were previously unable to successfully grow the tubers. For example, Central Europe may slowly become a favorable region for certain varieties of truffles, like black Périgord.