Bread Flour Vs All Purpose Flour: Which Is Best For Bagels?

Not much beats the chewy, slightly yeasted bite of a well-made bagel. However, unlike beginner-friendly breads like French, banana, or beer bread, bagels are notoriously tricky to get right. One big mistake novice bagel-bakers often make is not using the right type of flour. We spoke to Nathan Myhrvold, the founder of Modernist Cuisine and co-author of "Modernist Bread at Home," a cookbook that helps bakers elevate their homemade bread, to get his expert opinion on which flour is best to use: bread or all-purpose.

Turns out, there isn't a hard fast rule when it comes to flour type. Myhrvold points out that just because flour has the all-purpose label, doesn't mean that it's suited for every bake. Similarly, bread flour isn't necessarily what you want for every type of bread. The trick is actually to look at the protein percentage, which is much more important than what the flour is labeled because different millers have differing opinions on what constitutes all-purpose or bread flour. 

Myhrvold states, "To us, flour that is used for bread should contain 11%–13% protein ... We used bread flour with 11%–13% protein content to make many of the breads in our books. We use the term "bread flour" in the recipes because many bread flours on the shelf are closer to the 12% protein content than all-purpose flours." Although Myhrvold used bread flour for his bagel recipes, he warns that protein counts can vary depending on brand so it's important to read the packaging closely before you commit to your flour.

There's a whole science to bread-baking, and protein is just a small part of what gives your favorite bread its signature texture. However, understanding what protein does can help you appreciate its importance when it comes to making bagels. Not only does protein help develop the gluten in your bagels, which gives them structure and elasticity, but it also helps dough take on more moisture which will help give bagels that nice rise in the oven. 

According to Nathan Myhrvold, "Lower protein levels can result in less volume, a tighter crumb, or a soft crust. For bagels and enriched breads, a crispy crust isn't as important, but making these breads with lower-protein flours does result in reduced volume." And no one wants reduced volume when it comes to bagels. 

The beauty of the bagel is having a large sturdy canvas for your favorite toppings. If you've found your perfect flour in that 11%-13% range, and are ready to try your hand at making homemade bagels, we highly recommend giving this straightforward sesame bagel recipe a go. And if you're struggling to find good bread flour locally, you can always try online; this King Arthur 12.7% protein organic bread flour is $7.99 for 5 pounds on Amazon.