Why Anthony Bourdain Had A Soft Spot For 'Ugly' Food

In 2015, Time Magazine recognized that an ugly food movement was slowly taking over shops and restaurants in a collective thought that could help transform the concept of food waste into a more approachable subject. Misshapen foods were rebranded and marketed as grocers sought to push produce that defied conventional standards of perfection and chefs began to reimagine new ways of presenting them. 

Anthony Bourdain wrote a piece for Food & Wine in 2018 to advocate for foods that may not make for the prettiest updates to an Instagram grid but certainly did wonders for an eager appetite. Bourdain provided the example of the clumpy Italian cookie named brutti ma buoni, which translates as "ugly but good" before listing a few other dishes he had sampled around the world that, by photo alone, may not incite food envy but captivated Bourdain. Recipes like the Singaporean char kway teow are listed as Bourdain's favorite dishes from the country and ones he sought out when given the opportunity. Though the presentation is a mushy brown mix of rice noodles, fish, and meat coated in sauce, according to Bourdain, the flavors are layered and nuanced, and the texture is satisfying. 

Bourdain admits that certain ingredients are often cheaper — like organs and feet as opposed to a full muscle from an animal — but that with the right preparation and attention, even these pieces can yield a delightful meal that bursts with taste and a satisfying mouthfeel. "I know well the seductive power of a visually stunning food image," he writes. "But I also know that some of the most inherently delicious food has been pickled, butchered, braised, stewed, and/or charred in a way that maximizes flavor, visual appeal be damned."

As lovely as it might be to slice into a rare ribeye, Bourdain makes a case for the warm comfort of a goulash recipe that has been passed down through generations or a regional curry sampled in India. He encourages readers to whip up lentil salads and kimchi tofu stews at home or try making pork braised in milk. As a final punctuation point to his case, he provides the example of banana sticky toffee pudding for dessert for a sweet note that is delicious, regardless of the form it might take on a plate.