Revolution Brewing Brewpub In Logan Square

Logan Square's new Revolution Brewing has all the brewpub requisites: freshly brewed beer, hearty food and linger-worthy atmosphere.

All this makes it a downright pleasant place to while away the hours, sampling the house suds as you go.

If there's a wait, beeline for the fireplace lounging nook with a lightly hoppy Cross of Gold ($5) and a bowl of bacon-fat popcorn, tossed with bacon bits, fried sage and curls of Parmesan cheese ($4).

At your table, start with the Bottom Up Wit ($5), a refreshing orange peel- and coriander seed-spiked wheat beer that gets along swimmingly with curried sweet-potato cakes served on a tart red-pepper yogurt sauce ($6).

Spicy, seductively smoky chicken wings ($9) and hefty Wisconsin cheddar-ale soup ($6) demand a brew with more backbone, like the nutty, caramely Workingman Mild ($5), a lower-alcohol luncheon ale meant for consuming in sizable quantities.

The kitchen is predictably enamored with meat (though not without vegetarian options), and a formidable 16-ounce rib eye ($27) is cold-smoked over applewood for even greater savoriness. The logical pairing: a snifter of Willie Wee Heavy, a Scottish-style ale that takes on a dark, woody sweetness from cherrywood-smoked malt.

For dessert: more beer (natch). Specifically, the bread pudding ($5) baked with mild ale, or the White Ale Float (back in action next week, when a new sorbet machine arrives), in which tangy blood orange sorbet causes Bottom Up Wit to blush ($6).

Revolution Brewing, 2323 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-227- 2739 or revbrew.com