Stunning Design And Clever Food At Ruxbin Restaurant In Noble Square

To describe Ruxbin as "resourceful" is an understatement.

This new, petite Noble Square BYOB is filled with reclaimed and repurposed material, to stunning effect: Orange shipping crates panel the walls, seat belts serve as seat backs, and cookbook pages cover the ceiling.

But the design isn't the only reason to visit the 38-seat restaurant. Chef Edward Kim's menu is also peppered with ingenuity; it hops around the globe without feeling unfocused.

In a nod to French bistros, there are thin, superbly crispy frites tossed with garlic and herbs, with a smoky chipotle aioli on the side ($5). When topping an overstuffed bowl of mussels in white wine ($16), the fries are tossed in Japanese togorashi pepper.

Foil-wrapped elotes–roasted corn coated with cotija cheese, chili powder, cilantro and lime–are a true-to-form rendition of the Mexican street snack ($4). Hanger steak with chimichurri and fennel seed gastrique ($23) leans South American, while mojo chicken references both Latin America–with cilantro and black beans–and India, with basmati rice ($17).

One of the menu's stars defies ethnic definition: a salad of batter-fried eggplant with roasted beets, batons of cucumber, and fresh herbs, dressed in honey-cardamom yogurt ($11). Put simply, it's a delicious mix.

Ruxbin Kitchen, 851 N. Ashland Ave.; 312-624-8509 or ruxbinchicago.com