Father's Office Restaurant By Owner Sang Yoon

Father's Office is a restaurant that's often defined by what you can't order–namely, ketchup and dessert.

Those two omissions speak to owner Sang Yoon's exacting, calculated approach more directly than, say, an explanation of the restaurant's beer tap system, threaded with tubing designed for blood transfusions.

But after years of ketchup-less, dessert-less rigidity, meals at the Helms Bakery District Father's Office are loosening up, as Yoon is now offering something sweet at the end of the meal.

A few caveats, of course: You can't have dessert on a plate; the ice-cream-truck-inspired treats ($3 to $5) are all packaged to go. Except for the beer floats, but those come with their own conditions: You can only have combinations dictated by the kitchen, and scoops are never served without their accompanying brew.

These are dining laws we can abide, as they allow us to eat creations such as shortbread filled with buttermilk ice cream and blackberry-cassis sorbet (pictured), or hazelnut-foie gras ice cream sandwiched between Little Debbie-like oatmeal cookies.

And there's one more new sweet debuting this week, too: raspberry-lemongrass-chile push pops.

Father's Office, 3228 Helms Ave., Mid-City; 310-736-2224 or fathersoffice.com