Mateo's Cocina Latina Restaurant By Mateo Granados

Mateo Granados might be Sonoma's most celebrated chef who has never had a restaurant.

For the past seven years, the Oxkutzcab, Mexico-born chef has served his modern Yucatán food only on the go, as high-end catering, as elaborate meals cooked in a mobile kitchen at farmers' market booths, and at a roving pop-up called Tendejón de la Calle.

With the recent opening of Mateo's Cocina Latina in Healdsburg, Granados finally has a permanent place, across the street from Spoonbar and h2hotel, where he can show off skills learned while working at Dry Creek Kitchen and Masa's.

There are tacos on the menu, but in stunning, Sonoma-sourced recipes like the crispy rock cod taco drizzled with pumpkin seed-bell pepper sauce ($8; click here for the recipe).

And joy: Granados' signature suckling pig and cinnamon-cured onion tamales ($8) are here, too, served late into the night in authentic Oxkutzcab street style.

Mateo's Cocina Latina, 214 Healdsburg Ave. (near Westside Rd./Mill St.), Healdsburg; 707-433-1520 or mateoscocinalatina.com