Sunny Spot Restaurant | Marina Del Rey, CA

Last things first: There will be a pile of bones.

Pork, chicken, beef and fish bones. Prawn tails. All will be scattered on your plate after eating at Roy Choi's just-opened Sunny Spot.

There are pigs' feet (pictured; $6) that have been brined with sugarcane, braised, then deep-fried. They're meant to be dipped in explosive chile vinegar before being chewed on, finding pockets of nearly molten fat, tender meat and chewy cartilage hiding amongst numerous bones. And you should consider the jerk wings ($11), which deliver the fruitiness of Jamaica's famous chile sauce with only a measured whisper of heat.

But the one dish that must unequivocally be ordered won't lead to lustily gnawing on a bone: the slow-roasted G.O.A.T. ($15). For those without an encyclopedic knowledge of LL Cool J records, the dish's acronym name stands for Greatest of All Time. This braised kid is worthy of the title.

Cooked sous vide for 24 hours in Red Stripe and rum with allspice, clove, and other tropical spices we oddly associate with the winter holidays, the goat is an inspired bit of cooking.

Tucked in a curl of iceberg lettuce alongside a piece of pickled mango, the soft meat tastes far more of some humid Caribbean port city than the West Side.

Sunny Spot, 822 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey; 310-448-8884 or sunnyspotvenice.com