DGS Steps Up Standard Deli Fare - D.C.

Matzo ball soup around D.C. left something to be desired for a long time.

Some matzo balls were hard as baseballs, some were flavorless puffs, and none tasted like a comfort superfood.

But Dupont Circle's new DGS Delicatessen is doing justice to both the homey classic and many of its deli-standard siblings.

Chef Barry Koslow simmers his chicken broth ($7) with carrots, celery, onions and a hearty dose of dill, with the schmaltz-rich matzo ball as the fluffy, perfectly sized centerpiece.

Throughout the menu, Koslow plays with classic Jewish flavors. Holishkes ($18) wrap spiced ground beef and rye bread in tender cabbage leaves, simmering the lot in a tart, sweet tomato sauce. Flaky, giant knishes ($8) are stuffed with potatoes, spicy merguez sausage and lentils.

But Koslow's classic sandwiches will likely generate the most loyal following. Opt for his corned-beef reuben ($13.50), which layers thinly sliced house-cured beef, melted Gruyère, sauerkraut and a slick of Russian dressing between two pieces of rye toast.

Finish the meal with D.C.-style cheesecake ($7). The giant wedge is fluffier than its New York counterpart, and studded with pomegranate seeds to cut the richness. How comforting.

DGS Delicatessen, 1317 Connecticut Ave. NW (at N St.); 202-293-4400 or dgsdelicatessen.com