Killer Khachapuri At Oda House East Village

You have two reasons to thank Maia Acquaviva.

The first: She's saving you a trip to Brighton Beach, previously the only place to acquire the Georgian cheese bread khachapuri. Second, and more important, the seven distinct versions she's cooking at the new Oda House in the East Village are your path to cheesy, bready happiness.

Our favorite is the adjaruli ($12). It arrives at the table resembling a canoe made from yeasted bread. Added after baking are a rather large lump of butter, a lightly poached egg, and heaps of feta and mozzarella. Swirl them together and a dip emerges. Rip off the gunwales and scoop the makeshift dip. Keep eating until all that's left is the sauce-soaked hull.

Capsizing has never been so tempting.

If you don't want a meal of bread alone, add on a skillet freighted with oyster and button mushrooms and fried potatoes, fragrant with onions, garlic and dill ($10).

Pro tip: There's little at Oda House in the way of acidity or heat to cut the stomach-busting dishes. So ask for a side of adjika, a red-pepper sauce that neutralizes the tranquilizing effects of Acquavivas's food.