La Urbana Mexican Restaurant Western Addition | Tasting Table San Francisco

Divisadero's La Urbana is no taqueria, that's for sure

Not many Mexican restaurants serve smoking ceviche.

No joke: When the waiters at La Urbana bring you a blue mason jar of citrus-marinated sea bass ($12), they unscrew the lid and mesquite smoke trickles out.

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From the black walls and carnival-esque cabinetry to seared snapper with corn foam and huitlacoche purée ($24), La Urbana is an attention grabber.

Chef de cuisine Julio Aguilera, who has worked at Leopold's and Saison, was inspired to romp on the same playground as AQ or Sons & Daughters after his research trips to Mexico. "I ate at restaurants there that were taking grandma's cooking, using sous-vide or a Combi oven, but still being loyal to the taste," he says.

La Urbana's beet, carrot and chayote salad with puffed wild rice

That smoke? Flavorwise, it's a subtle–and masterful–touch. So is the nutty popped wild rice sprinkled over a salad of carrots, beets and chayote ($11), inspired by fried insects Aguilera ate in Oaxaca.

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Some tricks come off as precious instead of inspired–say no to oily cactus quesadillas, for example. The fearful can take refuge in braised-to-submission short ribs ($24) with a tomatillo sauce and brussels sprouts, which are tradition-minded yet not traditional.

You need no sense of adventure to fall for an airy chocolate crémeux with a mezcal gélée ($9).

Some pleasures need no translation.

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