Order Jalisco-Style Goat At Birrieria De Don Boni | Tasting Table Los Angeles

This Boyle Heights institution has got our goat

If you catch the heady scent of birria de chivo–roasted chile-rubbed goat–while driving on Boyle Heights' main drag one morning, there is a fair chance you're near Birrieria de Don Boni, a Jalisco-style restaurant that serves goat all day, every day.

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Actually, it's the only thing on the menu.

In 1974, Don Bonifacio Gonzàles and his wife, Doña Petra, opened Birrieria Jalisco in 1974 in a squat building on First Street. The dusty orange interior resembled an old-timey Southwest saloon. Forty years later, only the name has changed (in 2012 after the late Don Bonifacio). The goat is as delectable as always.

A single order of birria surtido ($11)–a mixture of rib, leg and back cuts cooked until they fall from the bone–comes with a fat stack of fresh tortillas and a cup of steaming goat consommé. Chopped onions, cilantro, lime wedges and a squeeze bottle of dark, tangy salsa are offered alongside.

You can order a large plate of goat for the whole familia ($28), or request la pistola, the goat's long foreshank, which can be eaten like a massive drumstick. The ritual remains the same: sip a bit of broth, fold the meat into soft tortillas and sprinkle with toppings. The goat is lean but rich, tamed into submission by a laundry list of spices and a long stay in the oven.

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There's no beer–unless you choose to smuggle it in via paper bags–but the house-made horchata ($2), heavy with cinnamon, provides the requisite cooling effect. 

Did we mention it's a great hangover cure?

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