Directions

1. Crack the eggs into a cold 3-quart saucepan. Cut 2 tablespoons of the butter into small pieces and add to the pan. Set the pan over medium-high heat and, using a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, mix the eggs to break them up.

2. Stir constantly, moving the pan off and on the heat so you can catch up with stirring the eggs if they are cooking too quickly in one spot. If you're doing this right, your arm will ache, but power through--it's going to be worth it.

3. Small curds with a pudding-like texture will begin to form after about 10 minutes. The eggs own you now. Pay attention to the pan, keep the curds moving and don't look away for a second. Once you've got a saucepan full of small, even but still-wet curds quickly remove the saucepan from the heat. Add the salt and remaining butter and mix well.

4. Give the eggs a quick taste and season with more salt if needed. Top with some chopped herbs and a few grinds of black pepper, if you like, and serve with slices of crunchy, lightly buttered toast.