If you really want to enjoy the flavors of a great fish, you've got to cook it whole.
Bonus: A big fish stuffed with aromatics, glistening with olive oil, makes for a gorgeous summery presentation.
The technique sounds a bit intimidating, but it's actually easy to master: Look for a black sea bass that's big enough to feed two. Rub it all over with Sichuan peppercorns, garlic, herbs and tangerine zest. Then cook it quickly on a hot grill. It's so spicy and awesome and satisfying, you could easily cook this dish for steak enthusiasts.
The key to success is picking a fresh fish, preparing it for a deep infusion of flavor and getting it off the grill without a mess. Here's everything you need for perfect whole fish cookery.
1. A well-oiled grill basket holds the fish and its seasonings together and protects the skin from sticking to a hot grill.
2. Look for a fresh bass that weighs 1½ pounds--the right size for two people. Before marinating it, dry it off with paper towels and score each side with three ¼-inch-deep cuts so the seasonings reach right down and the meat cooks evenly.
3. Our favorite aromatics for bass include marjoram and savory, tongue-tingling Sichuan peppercorns and sweet tangerine zest. Hit the fish with a generous sprinkling of salt just before it goes on the grill.
4. A delicate, buttery Ligurian olive oil imparts a very gentle flavor to the fish and keeps it from sticking to the grill basket. Don't be stingy. Use the good stuff. Then drizzle a little more on at the table.
5. A traditional Japanese fish scaler easily removes whatever the fishmonger missed without damaging the delicate flesh underneath.
6. Our preference is for grilling over charcoal because of the unbeatable smoky flavor that it lends to the meat.
7. Minced green garlic, if you can find it, adds another layer of flavor to this Sichuan-inspired fish recipe.
Yield: 2 servings
Prep Time:
30 minutes
Cook Time:
8 minutes
Total Time:
38 minutes
For the Grilled Fish:
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling basket
1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns, finely chopped
1 teaspoon minced green garlic (or regular garlic)
1 teaspoon minced fresh savory
1 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram or oregano
1 teaspoon tangerine or orange zest
1½ pounds black sea bass, scaled and cleaned
Salt, to taste
For the Cucumber and Cilantro Salad:
1 cup thinly peeled, sliced cucumber
1 cup loosely packed cilantro
¼ cup thinly sliced scallions
1 Thai chile, thinly sliced on the diagonal
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
¼ teaspoon sesame oil
Salt, to taste
